Well, here we are again, preparing ourselves for nature's wrath upon us and our delectables.
I'm talking about invertebrates. (No backbone). To narrow it down a little, we'll focus on the little beasts that chew. They chew roots, and stems and leaves, and flowers and fruit, and bark, and, and, and, and, well, they chew! They'll eat just about anything but plastic. Some may even eat plastic. Some are desired, like ladybug beetles, and preying mantids, and beneficial nematodes, and certain types of parasitic wasps, and earthworms, and lacewing bugs. Some are even necessary (for figs to ripen, for example--fig wasps.) Others...not so much. I'm going to talk about Worms, and moths, and butterflies and beetles, and flies, and ants, and any invertebrate that you're likely to encounter on your path to organic home gardening.
Here's a short list:
Here's a short list:
Cabbage Moth 
Glassy Winged Sharpshooter. DANGER, DANGER, DANGER, DANGER 
Horned Green Tomato Worm
Cutworm
Leafminer
Rose Weevil
Japanese BeetleI could add picture after picture after picture of our nemeses. But let's cut to the chase. This is about chewing pests. Cut worms, green tomato horn worms, detrimental nematodes, cabbage looper moth larvae (cabbage worms), snails, slugs, and all of the above lovely creatures.
Here’s a list of IPM (Integrated Pest Management) essentials. (I love lists. It’s the Virgo in me.)
1. DE Diatomaceous Earth. This stuff is powdered oyster shells. Insects that crawl on top of the ground despise it. It's extremely uncomfortable to travel over. It's usually white. So you'll definitely see it around your plants
2. BT Bacillis Thuringiensis. Powdered or liquid form. This stuff may be sprinkled or sprayed on plants and the surrounding ground. Once ingested, this bacteria consumes soft tissue inside the larvae, eradicating it. Or, at least, most of it.
3. Insecticidal soap. This is NOT detergent. It is usually derived from potassium fatty acids and works only by direct contact. Great for Aphids and Whiteflies and mites and thrips. Not harmful to humans or vertebrates.
4. Beneficial Nematodes (These are the only remedy I've found that works on weevils. And it takes some time to see the benefits.) Apply in the spring. Follow directions explicitly. Takes 2-3 months. Lasts a couple of years, until the prey is gone. Occasional re-application later in the season, if no results have been noticed.
5. Collars for newly planted tomatoes and any curcurbitae (squash and gourds, and melons, and cucumbers). At least 3 inches underground, with one inch above ground, these can be as simple as a tin can with the top and bottom removed. Plant your seedlings inside it, in the ground. You can use a plastic milk carton with the bottom and top cut off, you can use a large paper cup, with the bottom removed. Are you getting the picture? These collars really cut down on the problems with borers and cut worms. Cut worms go for the stem right at ground level, and very neatly sever the plant from the roots. Borers get up inside the stems and suck the life right out of the plants. (not a pretty picture). Collars are a great anticipatory defense.
6. Sluggo for snails and slugs
7. If you see earwigs, simply place a small, shallow bowl half full of oil (vegetable, or canola, or olive) before dusk. Check the next morning, tossing the oil and captured earwigs and reset your trap. You'll see the numbers diminish rapidly over the course of 3 or 4 days. If you have a cat, you may see a feline with very shiny fur, and an empty bowl. But, if you set it under a plant in an inconspicuous area, cats generally avoid it.
8. Then there's the theory that, if you plant something they like MORE, right next to your favored crop, then they'll chow down where you want them to.
Now, here's a little recipe for Leaf Miners of all types that I picked up on the internet tubes:
Things You'll Need
· 12-inch by 12-inch plastic containers
· Soapy water
· 3 large garlic cloves
· 1 tbsp. mineral oil
· Blender
· 1 tbsp. pure liquid soap such as Castille
· Water
· Coffee filter
· Clean glass jar
· Plastic spray bottle
·
1 Check your seedlings every day for the presence of leaf miner eggs. Examine the undersides of each leaf carefully for what may look like tiny raised spots. Eggs will be present just under the leaf surface. Pick off any infested leaves and destroy them. Don't add them to your compost heap.
2 Set several 12-inch by 12-inch plastic containers at random spots next to seedlings in your garden as soon as you plant. Check the containers for the presence of leaf miner larvae every day and dump any that you find into a bucket of soapy water. When you catch about 10 larvae per tray for 3 or 4 consecutive days, it's time to treat for them.
3 Puree three large garlic cloves and 1 tablespoon of mineral oil in the blender. Allow the mixture to set for at least 24 hours. Add 1 tbsp. of pure liquid soap such as Castille and puree. Slowly pour in 1 pint of water to avoid whipping up a lather. Stir the mixture thoroughly. Strain the repellent concentrate through a coffee filter into a clean glass jar. Cap the jar tightly, label it and store it in the refrigerator.
4 Mix 2 tbsps. of the concentrate with 1 pint of water in a plastic spray bottle.
5 Apply the homemade repellent to any affected plants. Coat all surfaces completely. Repeat once weekly and re-apply following each rainfall.
Pasted from <ehow article>
As you can see, once you're scratched the surface of IPM, the vast number of variables, the numerous approaches to control, and the sheer volume of information can be daunting. Don't despair. You're good enough, and your smart enough, and, doggone it, your garden loves you! The first couple of seasons are always the hardest!
Be sure to touch base with me here, whenever you have a question, or a comment, or a picture, or a tip. I LOVE to exchange information with you.
And, until next time, get out there and enjoy your garden!!!
